The M25

There aren’t many roads here.  Paved roads are only really found in Stanley and on parts of the road around Mount Pleasant.  The road network links settlements in Camp (from the Spanish campo – meaning countryside).  Camp refers to everywhere outside Stanley.  There is a circular loop which goes all around the top part of the east island.  It’s nicknamed the M25.  

On a grimly grey Sunday we drove around the loop.  It was great to see more of the Islands, scenery ranging markedly from mountainous to rolling.  We drove on gravel roads through fords, up and down precipitous drops.  The weather improved and we had to keep stopping to look at the view.

Smoko at Darwin

It was our plan when we set off on our drive to get to Goose Green for part of Sports Week (a week of sports/sheep shearing competitions/horse racing and partying).  Unfortunately we were so hungry by the time we were close, we had to stop at Darwin Lodge for their legendary smoko.  We left Darwin too late to catch any sports and too early for partying.

Smoko – afternoon tea (in this case) was phenomenal.  A tiered cake plate arrived with 6 types of homemade cakes (24 of them), a huge pot of tea and a large plate of sandwiches.  We just had to give the food two and half hours of our attention.  We sat in their sun room reading magazines, guzzling tea and stuffing ourselves.  Absolute bliss.

Sea Lion Island

There are over 700 islands making up the Falkland Islands.  One of the most popular to visit is Sea Lion Island.  Early on a Friday morning we left for Stanley Airport for our 8am check in.  We were on the plane by 8.30am and bursting with excitement.

FIGAS (Falkland Islands Government Air Service) planes are small, red and iconic.  They have enough space for 8 passengers and a pilot, and every seat has a window.  They are a vital link for outlying communities, delivering post and goods as well as being a transport link.

The flight took 45 minutes.  Seeing Stanley from the air was so interesting, but flying over sea and tiny islands was breath-taking.

Sea Lion Island has no rats, which means that ground dwelling bird species thrive.  There are three species of penguin, giant petrels, skuas, shags…you get the idea.  There are elephant seals, sea lions, occasionally orcas are seen patrolling the coast.  In short, the place is teeming with amazing, completely amazing wildlife.  We spent the weekend feeling as if we were watching a natural history documentary. 

On the first day, we were dropped a couple of miles along the island just next to a colony of Imperial Shags.  One walked over to investigate us the moment we got out of the car.  The smell of the colony was horrendous!

We then wondered along the coast.  I’m running out of superlatives to express just how utterly overwhelmed we were with the scenery and wildlife. 

The Rockhopper is colony situated at the top of a vertical cliff face, dropping over 100ft into tumultuous sea.  They allowed us to sit very close, and observation was very much two way.

We walked further down the coast, skirting huge swathes of tussac grass and stopped off to look at the sea lions.

After lunch we walked through colonies of Gentoo and Megallic penguins and along a white sand-stormy, wave crashing beach.  Gentoos were porpoising in the waves and popping out of the sea.

We walked over the dunes to the opposite shore of the island, rocky and calmer.  We watched elephant seals lazing and arguing with each other on the beach.  They are HUGE.  

These two seemed to be sharing a joke, probably about their mate behind them (Abu, behind was marked as part of a long-running research project.  They are named and marked with hair dye – one of them is even called Batman).

We decided to call in on the sea lions after that.  We were leaning over the cliff looking down when a massive fin slid past in the water.  We had not had any expectations of seeing orcas, it being the wrong time of year.  But there they were, a pod of Orcas, two males, juveniles and three females.  There are no words.  Jools, we thought of you.

In the evening, I lay in the sand dunes and watched the Gentoos coming ashore for the night.  They were unaware of my presence until right on top of me.  Once they knew I was there, they were inquisitive.

I must admit though, I love Johnny Rooks.  Inquisitive, cheeky, nosey and charismatic.  They really make me laugh.  Unfortunately they are quite rare and on the endangered list.

I sat next to the pilot on the way back.  It was so much fun.

Squid Fishing Season

The end of February marks the start of the squid fishing season.  The harbour has been filled with Squid Jiggers, all of whom have come in to get their licence for fishing in Falkland waters.  They arrive, and drop anchor for several hours returning to sea once the licence is granted.

Jiggers in the Harbour (this is also my view when cycling home)

The squid they catch is Ilex (to me it’s the Latin name for the plant holly) which is all bound for the Far East.  There have been up to 14 jiggers in the harbour at points and it’s been really interesting watching the small local craft going from ship to ship granting licences. 

Each year some of the fishermen jump ship.  With sea temperatures of between 6-10 Celsius it’s extremely dangerous for those who jump.  Many perish without getting ashore. 

When the news broke that 7 had jumped from a Taiwanese vessel, there was huge concern here for their safety.  A massive search began with many people joining in, and half hourly updates on the local radio.  The search was undertaken by air, sea, and on the ground by emergency services, military and by local volunteers.  The weather was cool, and the sea rough when they jumped. Everyone hoped survivors would be found, but the conditions were really against them. 

Miraculously, all 7 were found alive and in reasonable shape.  The joy and relief in Stanley was palpable.  Two were found at Gypsy Cove and the other five were found when they knocked at someone’s house asking for food.  We don’t know why they jumped but they can’t have been happy.  They are being flown back home by the Falkland Island Government this weekend after spending time here recovering and resting.

Unfortunately, two more sailors jumped from another vessel later that day.  After another extensive search, a body was found, his companion is missing, presumed drowned. 

Sometimes when we eat, we forget about how that food has got there.

Force 10

What a difference 24 hours makes.  On Sunday we had flat calm and temperatures in the high 20s. On Monday a force 10 storm rolled in.  It came earlier than expected and caught everyone by surprise.  With winds of about 58knots and gusts above that, cycling to school with the children wasn’t an option, although Matt did cycle to work and I did see some other nutters out on their bikes.

The sea looked like it had smoke coming off it, the spray was so intense.  A jigger was dragged from its anchor and ran aground so we watched intently as a tug dragged it back afloat.  

I took Maya for a drive and made the rookie error of parking rear on to the wind.  Result – 5 minutes of extreme struggle to get the car door closed – we were lucky the door wasn’t torn off.  It took all my strength to finally close the door.  Apparently nose on is the answer.

Feathers

The beach near the sand dunes is now covered with penguins as they have their annual moult.  The feathers catch on the marram grass in the dunes and Maya and I had a happy walk looking at all the penguins and collecting their feathers.  The feathers are tiny and delicate, much smaller than I’d imagined.   The moulting penguins just look miserable.

Feathers caught in the roots of Marram Grass

Tyres

Our new Rover now has 4 massive off road tyres.   The old ones were on the verge of blowing out with flaps of rubber hanging off them.  This means we can get out and about to really explore.  I feel so high up from the road now when I drive it.  The children and their friends love being in it as it’s noisy, scruffy, smelly, dirty and lots of fun.  I just love driving it.  We are off out in it today to see where we can get to.  We have a picnic packed, the sun is shining and there’s not much wind.

 Here's where we got to!  Another lovely day.  Driving off road, wandering along the coast enjoying family time.

Little pieces of heaven

Cut flowers are very sparse here.  Any cultivatable land is used for growing fruit and veg.  Having left behind a garden there is always something in flower (even in mid winter), I miss a vase of flowers about the house.  This is what I found at Stanley Garden Centre on Wednesday. 

  

Big pieces of heaven

For a long time, my dream car has been a Defender.  Having one here was part of the carrot Matt used to persuade me that moving to the other end of the world was a good idea.  We already have one lovely comfortable Land Rover, but it can’t go properly off road as the chassis us too low.

This is what we’ve just bought.  A Rover as they are known here.  We placed a bid when the government were selling off old vehicles and were successful.  Now we need to get more suitable tyres and to get out there exporing!!  I need to fiercely fight my urges to pimp it.  The list of things we could add and alterations we could make is huge and very tempting.

Cape Pembroke

On our first foray off road in our new Rover, we took it out to Cape Pembroke.  We had a lot of fun on the tracks and went for a very blustery walk.  The waves crashing over the rocks were stupendous, but it was cold so we repaired to The Narrows for dinner.

Cape Pembroke Part 2

Saturday morning was beautiful and calm so instead of going out for a drive out to Goose Green, we went to Cape Pembroke again.  

On the Cape is a lighthouse and the key for it is available from the museum in town if you’re organised enough.  The drive out was lots of fun and once there, spent a lovely hour poking about the coastline and loving the view.  

Falkland Grass Wren

As we were walking away, we stopped to say hello to a family walking toward the lighthouse.  They were kind and organised people who had the lighthouse key with them.

We did an about turn and clambered up to the top of the lighthouse after them.  It felt like an amazing end to a wonderful morning.  And then…from the top of the lighthouse we spotted a large pod of Commerson’s dolphins foraging along the coast just below us.  We watched them for ages before leaving to make our way further along the coast.

We watched them as they appeared to shadow us along the coast.  We stopped at a white sand bay and they foraged in the shallows just off shore, keeping an eye on us all the time.  

Anna had spotted a seal and Maya had gone to see it with her.  Matt and I sat on the beach marvelling about what we had seen.  And then a penguin popped out of the sea onto the sand and stood looking at us before waddling toward us to get a better look.  

We couldn’t believe it.  We tore ourselves away and went to see the seal.  It was sunbathing on the rocks and had a blissful expression on its face.

Thursday 29^th  

Apparently the King Penguin was at Surf Bay.  Darn.

Coffee morning – this is how it feels not to work… Met some lovely women, ate amazing scones and had a very nice time.  I will need to get a job soon though.

Friday 30^th

Party!  It’s great having a local at the bottom of the road.  This evening we were invited to a 60^th birthday party at said local.  Free bar and fun loving people made for a great, everso slightly tipsy evening.  Pisco Sours are my undoing.

Sat 31^st

We volunteered at the wildlife rehabilitation centre during the morning.  This is where injured penguins and other birds are brought in to recover.  Oil slicks being the most common cause.  Apparently for every penguin found, another 200 perish.  They stay in flocks when they forage so if one has been through a slick, then the whole group will have.  It’s shocking.

After finishing at the rehab centre we popped to Surf Bay to see if we could see the King Penguin.  No luck .  We did watch Steamer Ducks moving about on the rocks as the tide came in though.

After that, we went to the Race Course for the 250 years celebration.  It was great, the atmosphere was very relaxed and friendly.  We sat in the sun soaking up the atmosphere and generally having a lovey time. The weather was really hot, it was sunburn weather. 

As if we hadn’t packed enough in, we drove to the other end of Stanley and out the other side.  We spent a bit of time scrambling over rocks and climbing up small rock faces.  The views were wonderful. 

All this and with quite substantial hangovers.

The day was rounded off with a meal at The Narrows (our local).  I was asked if I wanted a Pisco Sour when we arrived at the bar.  Very funny.  It’s too early to be able to walk into a bar and ask for ‘The usual’.

Sunday

Bridge Lesson

We are learning to play Bridge.  We had our first lesson today and I am thoroughly confused.  We have been invited to join the Bridge Club, which meets just across the road from us.  It may be a while until I am ready….I’m going on Tuesday to observe.

Monday

The solution to the school run is nigh!!  Sian (who lives 4 doors up) takes Maya and her older son in the morning and collects them at the end of the day.  I take her younger son and Anna and collect in the afternoon.  We both do the lunch run.  What makes it even better is cycling.  I accompany the children morning and evening by bike!  It’s great.  Luckily it’s downhill but into the wind on the way in and uphill with the wind at our backs on the return journey.  When it’s really windy we even get blown uphill.  

Wednesday

The weather continues blue skies and sparkly seas.  We live in a truly beautiful place. 

The observation evening at Bridge was good, the rules are still a little opaque in places but becoming clearer.  The Bridge players were very generous with advice and hints.  It will be fun if I can master it.

I’m off to Aqua aerobics tonight.  It’s the only exercise class I’ve ever been to where everyone is there for a good gossip, which continues right through the class.  I’m still completely spent at the end of the class though, so it is hard work too.  I hope it is effective, as I am well on the way to gaining the ‘Falkland Stone’ that everyone here talks about.

Thursday

Oh my goodness, there was a new person taking the aqua class last night and I’m in pain!  There was very little talking last night, as it was a really hard session!

I had a very instructive morning learning how to use a loom.  The lady teaching me makes the most amazing hats from felted wool.  She spins and dyes the wool herself, then weaves it into cloth, felts if and then creates wonderful things.  What an inspiration.  I am missing the essential ingredient in all this…patience.

Friday

A parcel from the UK!!!  DVD’s, cards, letters, photos, gifts.  Thank you so much Louise.  You are an amazing friend.  Thank you to everyone who contributed, we felt really spoilt and a bit homesick. While I’m at the thank-yous, I must also say thank you to Sue and to Jean who keep sending photos of the pets we’ve left behind.  It means the world to us to see them all so happy.   

I have been bored during the day today, and really need something to keep mind and body active.  So, to sort this out, I have booked us a weekend on Sealion Island!  We go in March for two nights.  It’s an island absolutely teeming with wildlife.  We cannot wait. 

Meat

Matt won a lamb in a raffle.  We weren’t sure how it would arrive.  The girls were hoping it would come bounding up the path bleating.  It came in a black sack cut into 8 pieces.  We have eaten some of it and it is absolutely delicious.  The rest of it is bagged up in ziplock bags and is nestling alongside the reindeer leg in the freezer.

Shops

There are a lot of shops in Stanley that are very well hidden.  I am still discovering them.  I have needed the assistance of locals to help me find some of them.  One of our neighbours took me to one on Saturday.  It looks like a private house and it’s only open on Saturdays from 12-4 as the lady who runs it also works full time.  We entered and it was an emporium of all things sewing/crafty.  It was utterly unexpected and is a gem of a place.  I will be revisiting it regularly.

Stanley is going to take a while to get to know properly, and there would be things that I would miss completely without the kindness of people here showing me tucked away places and taking me to see interesting things. 

The view from our lounge

The sea was navy blue when I woke early on Saturday morning.  After rain, the air can become really clear making the scenery come into pin sharp focus.  The scenery is rugged and beautiful, rocky and bleak.  Most days I open the curtains and utter an involuntary ‘wow’.  It’s a constantly changing view, sometimes there are huge cruise ships in the sound, sometimes it looks as if there are diamonds on the surface of the water.  It is occasionally steel grey, reflecting the sky. 

When the wind is up, the waves in the harbour can become large and white horses blow across the harbour.  It was very windy on Sunday and as we drove out to lunch at The Malvina, the waves were breaking spraying the car as we drove along Ross Road.  The car was crusted with sea salt.  

Here are some photos of life here,  I will take some of our view when it's stopped raining!

 This is the Lady Liz, a beached ship near our house.  It's beautiful in certain lights and when the tide is out, apparently you can walk right up to it.

A blustery day at Surf Bay

Our house and Maya