The M25

There aren’t many roads here.  Paved roads are only really found in Stanley and on parts of the road around Mount Pleasant.  The road network links settlements in Camp (from the Spanish campo – meaning countryside).  Camp refers to everywhere outside Stanley.  There is a circular loop which goes all around the top part of the east island.  It’s nicknamed the M25.  

On a grimly grey Sunday we drove around the loop.  It was great to see more of the Islands, scenery ranging markedly from mountainous to rolling.  We drove on gravel roads through fords, up and down precipitous drops.  The weather improved and we had to keep stopping to look at the view.

Smoko at Darwin

It was our plan when we set off on our drive to get to Goose Green for part of Sports Week (a week of sports/sheep shearing competitions/horse racing and partying).  Unfortunately we were so hungry by the time we were close, we had to stop at Darwin Lodge for their legendary smoko.  We left Darwin too late to catch any sports and too early for partying.

Smoko – afternoon tea (in this case) was phenomenal.  A tiered cake plate arrived with 6 types of homemade cakes (24 of them), a huge pot of tea and a large plate of sandwiches.  We just had to give the food two and half hours of our attention.  We sat in their sun room reading magazines, guzzling tea and stuffing ourselves.  Absolute bliss.

Sea Lion Island

There are over 700 islands making up the Falkland Islands.  One of the most popular to visit is Sea Lion Island.  Early on a Friday morning we left for Stanley Airport for our 8am check in.  We were on the plane by 8.30am and bursting with excitement.

FIGAS (Falkland Islands Government Air Service) planes are small, red and iconic.  They have enough space for 8 passengers and a pilot, and every seat has a window.  They are a vital link for outlying communities, delivering post and goods as well as being a transport link.

The flight took 45 minutes.  Seeing Stanley from the air was so interesting, but flying over sea and tiny islands was breath-taking.

Sea Lion Island has no rats, which means that ground dwelling bird species thrive.  There are three species of penguin, giant petrels, skuas, shags…you get the idea.  There are elephant seals, sea lions, occasionally orcas are seen patrolling the coast.  In short, the place is teeming with amazing, completely amazing wildlife.  We spent the weekend feeling as if we were watching a natural history documentary. 

On the first day, we were dropped a couple of miles along the island just next to a colony of Imperial Shags.  One walked over to investigate us the moment we got out of the car.  The smell of the colony was horrendous!

We then wondered along the coast.  I’m running out of superlatives to express just how utterly overwhelmed we were with the scenery and wildlife. 

The Rockhopper is colony situated at the top of a vertical cliff face, dropping over 100ft into tumultuous sea.  They allowed us to sit very close, and observation was very much two way.

We walked further down the coast, skirting huge swathes of tussac grass and stopped off to look at the sea lions.

After lunch we walked through colonies of Gentoo and Megallic penguins and along a white sand-stormy, wave crashing beach.  Gentoos were porpoising in the waves and popping out of the sea.

We walked over the dunes to the opposite shore of the island, rocky and calmer.  We watched elephant seals lazing and arguing with each other on the beach.  They are HUGE.  

These two seemed to be sharing a joke, probably about their mate behind them (Abu, behind was marked as part of a long-running research project.  They are named and marked with hair dye – one of them is even called Batman).

We decided to call in on the sea lions after that.  We were leaning over the cliff looking down when a massive fin slid past in the water.  We had not had any expectations of seeing orcas, it being the wrong time of year.  But there they were, a pod of Orcas, two males, juveniles and three females.  There are no words.  Jools, we thought of you.

In the evening, I lay in the sand dunes and watched the Gentoos coming ashore for the night.  They were unaware of my presence until right on top of me.  Once they knew I was there, they were inquisitive.

I must admit though, I love Johnny Rooks.  Inquisitive, cheeky, nosey and charismatic.  They really make me laugh.  Unfortunately they are quite rare and on the endangered list.

I sat next to the pilot on the way back.  It was so much fun.