Brize Norton to Ascension
We left Cambridge with a minibus full of luggage and heads
swirling with emotion. Not knowing what
to expect even at the airport. The past
few weeks had been so physically and emotionally exhausting. Arrival at the
base meant saying goodbye to Rez, our lovely taxi driver who had driven us
there and waiting in the cold and mist for an RAF minivan to transport us to
the terminal. I think ‘basic but
reasonably efficient’ best sums up our experience at the terminal. One shop come café a, tired seating area and
a 3 hour wait between check in and take off.
The flight.
The flight was full,
apparently, this is highly unusual. It
was smooth and the crew were much more efficient and friendly than commercial
flights. Brand new plane too, which was
nice. Everything was very blue and
grey. But there it is, it’s the ‘air
bridge’ run on behalf of the MoD and the main way to get civilians and military
to both Ascension and the Falkland Islands.
No frills but with a charm all of its own.
Ascension Island
After a 10 hour flight we arrived on what seemed at first
sight to be a barren volcanic island thousands of miles from the nearest
land. It was surreal to step out onto
the runway into a hot bath of tropical air.
Instead of spending 2 hours in what is affectionately known as ‘The
Cage’ before departing on the 2nd leg of the flight, another 8.5
hours to Mount Pleasant F.I., we had decided to have a 3 day holiday on
Ascension Island. Somewhat dazed and
completely shattered we were transported along with our collective 12 items of
luggage to the Obsidian Hotel in Georgetown.
The Obsidian Hotel
The hotel room was basic (youth hostel/Butlins basic) but
clean and sporadically air conditioned.
What made our stay at the hotel were the people. At lunch we met other equally dazed people
fresh from the UK. Most were waiting for
the MPS (mail ship) to take them on the final leg of their journey to St
Helena; a 3 day boat journey away. We
met 2 other families moving abroad for 2 year stints and for the first time, we
were able to share our myriad of feelings with others in the same
situation. It was so good to laugh and
compare notes. It was especially great
for the children to find other children doing exactly the same thing, it
normalised what they’d been through.
Over meals at the hotel, we got to know many fascinating
people, all with tales to tell. With the
island being so small, we bumped into them when we were out and about too,
adding to the sense of community on the Island.
Food at the hotel was unexpectedly lovely, and the staff so
laid back and kind. Relaxation was made
very, very easy. We slowed down to
Island pace where no-one rushes, everyone chats, no doors are locked and keys
are left in car ignitions. 24 hours into
our stay we asked if there was a key to our room as we’d just been leaving the
door unlocked but were curious to know.
Ascension Island
It’s a 1 million year old tip of a volcano strewn with the
debris of 1000 year old further explosive eruptions. Pyroclasts and fumaroles all over the
place. It’s mainly barren and rocky
until you start to look properly. We had
rented a car, so we did look properly and found that 3 days wasn’t enough time!
Highlights : Beaches, Green Mountain, Turtles.
Things we need to go back to do: Green Mountain again and
again, beaches again and again, turtles as we want to see the babies, more
‘Letterbox walks’, visit to Boatswain Island to see boobies (!) and frigate
birds, more relaxation and tropical heat.
Beaches
It’s quite dangerous to swim off most of the island due to
strong currents and undertow. There are
two beaches deemed safe, English Bay and Comfortless Cove.
In stark contrast to the black and rust coloured landscape
by the coast, the beaches are amazing.
Azure sea lapping at white sand, the sea teeming with tropical
fish. We spent much of our time
snorkelling and gazing at the fish. It
was magical. To get into water deep
enough to snorkel we had to wander through shoals of baby swordfish and beautiful
but quite large black and blue fish.
Once out in deeper water and nearer the rocks, there were loads of other
types of fish all going about their business and completely oblivious to
us.
Lazing on the beach was good too. To be continued...
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